As a history addict having secured a distinction in history at the "I.C.S.E Exams(Std X)" wondered the reasons for the Ajanta and Ellora caves eluding my tour agenda till date as also Daulatabad fort.One of the greatest follies or brilliance of a ruler in history has been the shifting of his capital from Delhi to Devagiri(Daulatabad) by Sultan Mohammed Bin Tughluk(1325 AD -1351AD) of the Tughluk dynasty."Shikar Vedh" tour group were conducting a tour to Aurangabad and the historical edifices and temples in its precincts which included Ajanta/Ellora caves and Daulatabad. Cost of the tour was Rs 4,800 and contacted Mr Jagdish.Patil of "Shikar Vedh" on the phone and later confirmed my participation for this history/religious tour by paying a advance booking fee of Rs 2,500 on Tuesday(13-1-2015). .Departure for the tour was scheduled on Friday(23-1-2015) night and arrival back to Mumbai on Monday(26-1-2015) night.A complete schedule of the tour including tour leader Sonya.Aanchan's phone number and fellow tour members names was posted to my E-mail address on Thursday(22-1-2015), a day before scheduled departure from Mumbai
.
Our tour van safely driven by Mr Bharat.Patil,our driver.
Departure Mumbai(Friday 23-1-2015) :- As usual reached "Pritam Hotel(Dadar East)" rendezvous at approximately 2130 hrs, the earliest tourist at the meeting place. Rang up Tour Leader Sonya.Aanchan and was told to wait outside the hotel .At approximately 2200 hrs noticed a young man with a backpacker haversack staring at me and got acquainted with teenager Mr Ashutosh.Welankar, a nervous student of Ruparel college on his first group tour outing.We both walked a little further and came across group leader Sonya.Aanchan and our co- tourists who had assembled a little further away .We were a total of 12 tourists including tour leader Sonya.Aanchan. Got acquainted with each other. Mr Jagdish.Patil, co-founder of "Shikar Vedh" tours was also present as he was leading a different group tour trek to "Alang-Madan",with "Pritam Hotel" being the common meeting place for all tour treks leaving from Dadar by bus.Our "Force Traveller" van driven by driver Shri Bharat.Patil arrived late and we finally boarded the van at approximately 2345 hrs and began our approximately 450 Km journey to Ajanta Caves.
Partial view of "AJANTA CAVE COMPLEX" from Entrance. Bulbul' s ,Squirrels & langurs are a common sight.
Arrival Ajanta caves(Saturday 24-1-2015) :- The bus travel was comfortable with the bus windows being airtight and hence making the bus accommodation comfortable and warm.Did manage some sleep but on nearing Aurangabad the unpaved roads made the travel resemble a ship on rough seas! At approximately 0700 hrs we passed through the outskirts of Aurangabad which is 348 Kms from Mumbai and came across Dr Rafiq Zakaria Campus, a landmark institute. The highway from Aurangabad to Ajanta was absolutely pot-holed , a distance of 104 Kms and at 0900 hrs after passing the town of Ajintha from which the caves derived their name we finally arrived at "Ajanta Resthouse" complex, the tourist junction for visiting Ajanta caves.It was the end of a nine hour road journey from Mumbai.We alighted our van and made our way to the toilet/change-room.After normal toilet and freshening made our way to the tourist cafeteria/ shop vicinity and had breakfast at "Dilbahar tea center".It was the first time in group tours where the ladies outnumbered the men and we were just four males while the rest of the seven members were women. I was the eldest in the group and got acquainted with my co-male tourist Mr Ranjeet.Shirke as well as the rest of the lady tourists , all executive women on a extended week-end holiday.The weather was excellent, cool and partially cloudy with no hot Sun blazing through the sky,ideal for walking tours or hikes.After breakfast headed to the "Ajanta Shuttle bus" service provided at the complex. It was a 4 Kms distance by road from the shuttle complex to Ajanta caves .On arrival at the base of the cave complex we had to walk up a steep incline to the horse-shoe cave gallery complex. On arriving at the Cave entrance Sonya booked a guide and Shri Nazir.Sheikh gave us a guided tour of the cave complex.
HORSE-SHOE CAVE DESIGN :-"LAYOUT NUMBERED PLAN MAP" of Ajanta caves for tourist visitors.
Wall murals
The Ajanta caves are Buddhist caves that date back to the 2nd and 1st century B.C and are cut into Volcanic lava hills.There are a total of 29 caves which are numbered of which 5 caves are Buddhist temples and the rest 24 caves monasteries.The caves are excavated in a horse-shoe pattern which is considered auspicious in Buddhism.These caves were totally abandoned by its inhabitants in 650 AD in preference for the Ellora caves and forgotten by history and civilization.These caves were accidentally rediscovered on 29th April 1819 by British Soldier Mr John.Smith of the 28th Cavalry (Madras Presidency) while on a tiger hunting expedition in the vicinity. He spotted "Cave nos 10" from the "Hill-view" which is a elevated hill overlooking the cave ravines below.The rest is archaeological history and thats how the World and tourists got to learn and visit the now World famous Ajanta caves in India.
Guide Nazir.Sheikh explaining while tour group leader Sonya.Aanchan and us listen.
Our guide Nazir.Sheikh first took us to Cave Nos 1 and 2 which were Mahayana Monasteries .These are the first caves the tourist comes across when entering the horse-shoe designed cave complex. Photography is prohibited and hence the cave murals on the ceilings and pillars can be seen but difficult to photograph. The World's most photographed and advertised mural of Ajanta caves is from "Cave Nos 2" and i did manage to capture the same in orthodox fashion on my camera.
World's most photographed painting of Ajanta caves.
Caves nos 9,10,12,13 and 15 A are the oldest caves in the complex dating back to 200 B.C.We visited cave nos 9 and 10 which are "STUPA HALLS".On entering Cave 10 we were shown the painting on which John.Smith signed his name when he first entered this forgotten World and hence damaging the painting.The caves are dark inside and photography difficult in the dim light.Did manage to capture a few photo's.Photographed the stupa and the paintings just for the consolation of a "Been here, seen here and done that" episode for posterity.All the painting and designs of Ajanta are available on the "Internet" and photo albums but its a different intoxication seeing and photographing the same on a personal visit rather than viewing the same "second hand"!Thats the reason tourists go camera happy on tours although the same photographs are available in "National Geographic",documentary films or the "Internet". There is a lot of similarities between the paintings of Ajanta caves and the paintings in Sigiriya rock fortress in Sri Lanka.
Stupa in "Cave 10".
This is also the reason for "TOURISM" never getting out of fashion or focus despite modern media including blogs getting tourist sites to the confines of peoples homes.If fact people are attracted to personally visit a place or country they find attractive through the media and this group includes me and other tourists.Just sitting at home and reading reams of tourism print or viewing photographs never ever gives the true experience of venturing into the open and personally realizing your tourist ambitions.Hence here i was viewing and experiencing in person my school studies done decades ago in a classroom.
Our next visit was to "Cave 12" which had small prison style cubicles along the boundary of the cave which was used by the monks as residential dwellings. Very claustrophobic.
Paintings on exterior of cave entrance.
From "Cave Nos 12" we next went to "Cave Nos 17", a Mahayana cave which has the largest paintings of Jatakas. This monastery is also called the "Zodiac Cave" due to the painting of a gigantic wheel on its veranda wall.From this cave it was next "Cave Nos 19" which also had paintings.
Tourists are shown only the most important caves as the time limit is restricted as also the cost of hiring a tour guide. Our last visit was to "Cave Nos 26" which is the only cave having the reclining Buddha.After the normal photography we made our way out of the cave temple complex walking all the way back to "Cave no 8" and from there down stone steps to the valley below.
"Reclining Buddha" in "Cave Nos 26"
From the valley it was a straight walk to the "Shuttle bus-stop".There were lots of souvenir hawkers selling tourist guide books and local rock cut handicrafts.We finally boarded the "Shuttle bus" and headed back to "Ajanta resthouse" tourist complex.Lunch was at approximately 1400 hrs at the MTDC managed "Ajanta restaurant" and consisted of "Chicken Thali".After lunch at approximately 1500 hrs our long bus journey of 103 Kms back to Aurangabad to visit "Bibi ka Maqbara",
Dilras Banu Begum grave.Monetary coins and notes on grave.
We reached Aurangabad at approximately 1800 hrs and quickly made our way to the entrance of the monument.Having visited the Taj Mahal in 2003 couldn't refrain from comparing this monument to the original monument of love built by Emperor Shah.Jehan.Hence it is also called the "Taj of the Deccan". The "Bibi Ka Maqbara" was built as a mausoleum for Rabia-Ul- Daurani alias Dilras Banu Begum the wife of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb by her son Prince Azam.Shah.The Mausoleum stands at the centre of a huge garden similar to the Taj Mahal of Agra and designed in the typical Mughal "Char Bagh" pattern.The entrance to the main gate is from the South and the Mausoleum is built on a elevated square platform with four minarets at each corner, identical to the Taj Mahal but smaller in area and size.A mosque later built by the Nizam of Hyderabad is situated on the west of the main elevated platform.The Mausoleum is made of marble upto the Dado level as also the dome of the Mausoleum.The mortal remains of Begum Rabia-Ul-Daurani is placed below the ground level and photography restricted. In the dark night photography was restricted due to vision as there was no "Flood lighting" and hence we decided to re-visit the monument the next morning.Tasted some street snacks on the road outside the mausoleum complex, everyone enjoying the local snacks of Aurangabad.
"Bibi Ka Maqbara" view at twilight.
It was a short drive from "Bibi ka Maqbara" to hotel "Kartiki" situated at L.B Shastri Marg, Aurangabad-1.At last we would be finally stepping into a lodging after hectic travelling and sightseeing.sightseeing. Ranjeet, Ashutosh and myself were allotted "Room Nos 308" on the second floor of the two storey hotel while the ladies were allotted other rooms. The young boy Manas accompanied with his aunt Vishaka.Jadhav and co lady tourists kaveri, Geeta, Sheetal, and Poonam were allotted two seperate rooms within themselves.Two of the other lady tourists , Radhika and Vaishali stayed in another hotel on the opposite road as the space in Kartiki hotel was restricted . Strangely, Aurangabad seemed warmer than Mumbai and i felt foolish carrying warm-clothing and acquitted myself by having a cold water bathe!
Dinner was at 2100 hrs at the ground floor restaurant of Kartiki hotel.We men were outnumbered by the ladies and simpleton collegian Ashutosh was the centre of attraction with the ladies finding him hilarious a la "Cyrus.Broacha" style humour .Paid Sonya the balance of the tour cost, the final total amounting to Rs 4800. .Dinner was a Aurangabad delicacy "Chicken Handi", served in a brass pot,delicious and sumptuous.After dinner i headed back to my room and luckily fell asleep quickly.
View from Top:- Trek to the summit of "DAULATABAD FORT",the impenetrable fort.
Sunday(25-1-2015) :- Woke up at 0500 hrs as usual and completed my toilet routines including a chilled bathe. Aurangabad at a altitude of 513 meters(1683 feet) was definitely warmer than Mumbai with , the tap water being warmer than the "M.G.M.O" swimming pool in Mumbai..Ranjeet and Ashutosh were deep in slumber and hence woke them up at 0630 hrs. and headed out of the hotel for a cup of tea at the street side vendor.At approximately 0730 hrs all of us assembled at the hotel ground floor restaurant for breakfast.
"Dargah" inside Panchakki complex.
Panchakki Complex.
Similarities to Taj Mahal :-"BIBI KA MAQBARA" .
Breakfast was a delicious "Idli sambar/chutney" surprisingly well prepared for a non-South Indian hotel.After breakfast we headed into our van and drove to "Panchakki" . Aurangabad was founded in 1610 AD by Malik.Ambar the Prime Minister of Murtuza Nizam Shah of Ahmadnagar on the site of a village called Khadki.It was initially called Fatehnagar and in 1633 with the capture of Daulatabad came under the control of the Moghuls.In 1653 Prince Aurangzeb who was appointed Viceroy of the Deccan changed the name of Fatehpur to Aurangabad and made it his capital.This city is also known as a "City of Gates" having a total of 52 gates within its precincts..Aurangabad is the tourism capital of the State of Maharashtra and one of the fastest growing city's of the World in the 21st century. The huge "Mahmud Darvaza" greets visitors on the road entrance to Panchakki."Panchakki" which means water-mill was a hydraulically driven flour mill which ground flour for pilgrims in medieval India.The Panchakki complex had been a place of abode for Sufism and Sufi saints in 12 A.D and was built in 1744 to commemorate Sufi saint Hazrat Baba Shah
Musafir. It has its own perennial underground water system that has its source in a elevated hill just near the tributary of the Hasrul river 6 Kms away.Water is transferred through clay pipes to the main water reservoir where it accumulates. From the reservoir the water is lifted through siphoning to the top of a rectangular mason pillar and made to fall with pressure onto a paddle wheel. This paddle wheel drove the grinding machine which ground the flour.Brilliance of Medieval engineering which is in operation to this date. Today the paddle rotates idly akin to a windmill.The Panchakki complex consists of the Dargah of Baba Shah Musafir, a Sufi saint.There is a building which consists of a mosque,a Madrassa, a Kacheri,a ministers house,a Sarai and houses for Zananas.Visited the entrance of the Dargah of Baba Shah Musafir and was allowed photography.Photographed a pair of beautiful free roaming cats inside the complex, one being jet black in colour akin to a panther.There is a 600 year old Banyan tree inside the complex. Coincidentally the days newspaper had a article on the Governments plans to allocate funds for maintenance and renovation of the Panchakki complex, definitely a ancient engineering marvel worth preserving rather than letting it decay into oblivion.From "Panchakki" we drove to "Bibi Ka Maqbara" just a short distance away
.In daylight the flaws of "Bibi Ka Maqbara" was distinctly visible in comparison to the Taj Mahal, most notably being the lack of white reflection from the glossy white exterior.The adjoining garden was very pedestrian although spacious.A tourist should first visit the "Bibi Ka Maqbara" in Aurangabad and then the Taj Mahal in Agra to understand and appreciate dynastic Mughal architecture. This time i visited the Mausoleum's back garden and photographed the monument from the other end of the entrance. The garden water channel was empty and dry,Since i had already seen the Taj Mahal in Agra i just couldn't help comparing the two due to their eerie similarities in design and layout.Tour leader Sonya took some group photo's with her "Selfie Stick",the craze of the "i , me , mine "generation as well as a "Been here, seen that,done that" generation ! Memories for another day, another place and another time.
Main Entrance door of "Daulatabad Fort".
Our next drive was to the famed "DAULATABAD FORT" a distance of 17 Kms from Aurangabad.The car park was house-full as it was a holiday, the entrance to the fort crowded with local and foreign tourists.Tour leader Sonya arranged a guide and we all listened to the expertise of guide Shri Shiraz.Shaikh. Daulatabad Fort and the city city was built by Raja Billamraj of the Yadava dynasty of Deogiri and was then called Devagiri.It passed into the hands of the Sultans of Delhi when Allaudin Khilji conquered the fort in 1296 AD.The fort citadel stands on a 200 meter conical hill with steep sides which were chiseled by the Yadava rulers to prevent intruders from scaling this impenetrable fortress.The name "DAULATABAD" which means "City of fortune" was given by Sultan Muhammad Bin Tughluk during his reign in Delhi.He was considered a maverick as well as a madman by historians for his eccentric political decisions. He was impressed by Daulatabad and made it the capital of his empire in 1327 AD forcing all the citizens of Delhi to shift to his new capital which resulted in tremendous hardship and loss of lives.He later realized his folly and after two years reverted his capital back to Delhi.This fort finally passed into the control of the Moghul dynasty and was with the Moghuls until the death of Aurangzeb in 1707 A. After Aurangzebs death it was owned by the Nizams of Hyderabad.Guide Shiraz explained us the entrance gate fortifications and deceptions to confuse invaders.
"Canons" exhibited at entrance near "Aam Khas" gate.
Guide Shiraz.Sheikh explaining the Fort.
The main entrance gates have "Elephant Spikes" fitted to prevent easy access and cannons greet the tourist on entry to the fort grounds.This fort was only captured due to deceit or treachery and never by direct conquest and hence a legend among the numerous forts in India.The Fort has three layers of walls with bastions encircling the main hill fortress which had a deep moat filled with crocodiles.The first layer is the boundary wall and entry into the second layer leads to a 30 meters high and 21 meters in circumference minaret called the "Chand Minar" which was built by Sultan Alauddin Bahmani(Sultan Ahmed .Shah 11) in 1447 A D.The Jama Masjid stands opposite the Chand Minar and its pillars were originally of a Hindu temple.Walking a little further away is a huge deep tank known as "Haathi Talav(Elephant tank)" which was used as a water storage tank. A little further away from "Hathi Talav" is a large courtyard with a temple known as the "Bharat Mata Temple" . This temple has a dome shaped Islamic ceiling while the pillars on the periphery are Hindu in design .After Independence this temple was dedicated to Mother India and hence called "Bharat Mata" temple to make it secular and avoid religious controversy.
"Bharat Mata Temple"
The third layer of protective wall leads upto the "Chini Mahal(Chinese Palace)" , a small palace that was decorated with blue tiles and hence the name "Chini Mahal" and it was used as a "V.I.P Prison".It was in this palace that the last king of Golcunda Abdul.Hassan.Tana.Shah was imprisoned in 1687 by Mogul Emperor Aurangzeb for 13 years until his death.
"MENDA TOP", the World's second heaviest ancient Cannon.
Next to the "Chini Mahal" is a massive Cannon manufactured during the reign of Aurangzeb and popularly known as "Menda Top".This Cannon has the face of a Ram at one end and is the second heaviest Cannon in the World.
"Chand Minar".
From "Chini Mahal" its a upward walk up a flight of steps to the "Main Citadel" hill which is separated by a moat which was filled with water and crocodiles to prevent invaders.For tourists there is a single bridge across the moat which leads to the indecipherable serpentine "Bhulbhulaiya/Andhari(Dark confusion passage)" tunnel . On crossing this moat the only entrance for invaders was through this treacherous killer dark passage with uneven steps which had confusing twists and turns, almost impossible to navigate in pitch darkness.Smoke screens were formed and hot oil was poured on the invading enemy.The turns and twists lead to a window which was now covered by grated grills. Even if the enemy made it this far they finally toppled out of this abrupt opening into the deep moat below becoming food for the crocodiles.Even in 2014 it seems that this tunnel passage still remains a jig-saw mystery.Our guide Shiraz explained us in detail the various passages and a few of them had horse-shoe bats roosting on the tunnel ceilings.
"Bridge" for tourists to enter main citadel .
We finally crossed the "Bhulbhulaiya" and came into open sunlight which was also the end of our guided tour.Guide Shiraz told us that a trek to the summit of the Fort would take us approximately 1 1/2 hours. Sheetal.Shah took the initiative to encourage us to trek to the top and along with collegian Ashutosh and ladies Geeta,Vaishali and Radhika i too was tempted to come back from "Trek retirement" and attempt this steep walk at the age of 54 years! My co male compatriot Ashutosh was just 16 years of age and i hoped not to be a "Trek Embarrassment" as time and tide wait for none.Tour leader Sonya told us to return back to base by 1400 hrs and so we literally were in a hurry as a "Fort Trek" was not included in the tour agenda.Thankfully luck was in our favour with the weather being cloudy and cool. Trekking in the Sahyadri's is usually always undertaken early in the morning or evening to avoid the hot Sun , especially in Summer.The initial climb was again through a dark serpentine passage partly filled with fruit bats.I was surprised at my own trekking expertise as also with the ladies, especially Sheetal.Shah. During conversation was surprised to know that she had trekked Mt Kilimanjaro in Tanzania and was a trekking enthusiast having also trekked in the Himalayas.She and Geeta were very efficient trekkers and we all kept up a healthy pace akin to "Marathon Runners".
Steep chiseled sides of the citadel with the moat.
Our next stop was at the "Ganesh Temple" built by the Peshwas during their rule over this fort.Nearing the peak is the palatial "Baradari" which gives a beautiful view of the surrounding city.The "Baradari" was a favourite summer residence of Mughal Kings.Finally nearing the peak i realized to my utter amazement that i was the first in the group to reach the summit followed by young Ashutosh.The view from the pinnacle was amazing as are all views of any hillock, or mountain.The World's second heaviest Cannon is perched at the top near the pinnacle. Ashutosh and myself took photographs and about 15 minutes later Sheetal and Geeta also made it to the pinnacle.Sadly their two other compatriots Radhika and Vaishali decided to quit midway and return back to base. we four compatriots savored the sights from this elevated height clicking photographs and getting high on trek adventure.After a brief rest we made our way back to base which was quicker than the ascent .At approximately 1445 hrs we reached the main car park road .Lunch was at " Rajdhani Restaurant", one of the many "Dhaba's" lining the main road near the car park.Lunch was "Chicken Handi" with roti's, excellent and authentic dhabha lunch.After lunch we began our onward journey to Paithan and came across a large christian Cemetery along the highway in the army cantonment area of Daulatabad .
"JAYAKWADI DAM" with its 27 sluice water gates.
Paithan is a major sugarcane growing region and came across a caravan of bullock carts loaded with sugarcane.At approximately 1630 hrs we reached Jayakwadi dam in Paithan, one of the largest irrigation dams in the State of Maharashtra.The foundation of this dam was laid by Prime Minister Lal Bahadur.Shastri on 18th October 1965 and inaugurated on 24th February 1976 by Prime Minister Indira.Gandhi.It is one of the largest earthen dams in Maharashtra and irrigates agricultural land in the drought prone Marathawada area of Maharashtra.It is also used to provide drinking and Industrial water to villages and municipalities in Aurangabad and Jalna districts.water .
At the shore of "Nath Sagar"
The total catchment area of the dam is 21,750 Sq Km.Walked our way up the steep embankment of the dam where the catchment area resembled a small inland sea.People sit along the wall of the dam and its a good place to watch migratory birds.I made my way down the steep dam barricade stones to the edge of the lake reservoir.Most visitors go down to the edge of the dam lake called "Nath Sagar" which resembles a small landlocked sea.A few young boys were also swimming in this artificial dam lake and the water was sweet, pure drinking water.After a few photographs made my way back to the top and walked towards the main dam gates. Spotted a flock of ducks, cormorants and gulls through my binoculars.The weather was excellent, cloudy and cool.Photography along the main dam reservoir gates was not allowed.Our next tourist visit was to the Sant Dnyaneshwar Udyan, the largest garden in Maharashtra modeled on the Brindavan garden of Mysore which i had already visited during my Mysore tours.It is situated next to "Nathsagar" and named after Hindu Saint Jnaneshwar whose native village was Paithan.Musical fountains lit up at night are the main attraction of this garden besides its flowers and orchids. Paithan is famous for its Sari's and the lady's group were interested in visiting the Sari weaving shops.
"Cottage Dairy farming" in Paithan
We decided to visit the Sari shops first and later return to the garden to observe the musical fountains whose schedule was between 1915hrs -1945 hrs.It was a short drive to the Paithani saree shop locality.Got to understand the meaning and significance of Paithani sarees as the lady's examined various types and designs. Thanks to Radhika got to know the significance of the designs, the peacock bird being the mascot on all Paithani sarees which are made of pure silk.Strolled around the adjacent lane and came across a small house which had a few buffalo's for dairy milk. Got to learn about the cottage industry of diary farming from the stable owners.A buffalo was being milked and it was after decades that i got to actually visit a house-hold diary farm. The buffalo shown in the photo provided 25 litres of milk per day and this small stable had three milch buffaloes with the rest being calves.These milch buffaloes also had some of the longest horns that i have seen in domesticated water buffaloes. The owner had their long horns painted orange and they were a magnificent sight..
"Paithani Sari Weaving loom" :- A Cottage Industry.
As i stepped out of the cottage dairy came across a young boy herding his goats down the road. He had a pair of "Kid goats" in his arms with the mother goat braying and following him like a pet dog.On inquiry came to know that these kid goats were born just a few hours ago and the mother goat still had after-delivery blood marks.Was destiny planning a agricultural vocation for me ? Bizarre co-incidence of first stumbling across a cottage dairy industry and later a goat farmer with just delivered kid goats.Strolled aimlessly around the small lane from the main road and the local kids found my hairstyle bizarre and became friends with me.They proudly displayed their pet dog and showed me their new cycle.Meanwhile the lady's had discovered a Paithani weaving house and invited me to observe the weaving of this brand of exquisite sarees.
"Musical Fountain show" at Sant Dnyaneshwar Udyan.
.It was a small cottage type house and a lady was weaving a saree on the weaving machine.The particular sari she was weaving would take approximately 6 months to complete and cost a whooping Rs 40,000.All the ladies purchased sarees and seems that this was the end of their shopping sojourn for the entire tour.After the completion of the Saree shopping we drove to Sant Dnyaneshwar garden and surprisingly the entire garden complex was in darkness barring a few lamplight's. The garden occupies approximately 310 acres of land, It was a long walk from the entrance to the venue of the "Musical Fountain", besides, there was darkness all around and hence couldn't appreciate the gardens.The musical fountain venue was crowded with spectators . To blow my own trumpet . Having seen numerous gardens in India including Mysore's Brindavan and Hyderabad's "Hussain Sagar " garden i personally found the fountain musical show average. After the musical show we headed back to our van and headed to Aurangabad.We had decided to savor the authentic street food of Aurangabad and the ladies decided the restaurant with a little help from "Google Internet" and "Smart Phones"..
Classic Aurangbad cuisine at "Koyla Dum Biryani & Kebabs".
Dinner was at a chic road side restaurant called "Koyla Dum Biryani & Kebabs" situated in shop No 12 at Cannaught Place in Cidco annexe of Aurangabad. Brought back memories of "Bade Miya": in Colaba locality of Mumbai, my old adda.The entire small street had plush road side eateries . I ate a "Mutton Dum Biryani" and we all shared a assortment of Kebabs. After dinner visited the most exotic paan shop in my life and satisfied my paan curiosity .It was cheap and excellent.
After dinner it was back to our hotel and a good nights sleep after a cold water shower. Aurangabad weather was just fantastic and bizarre, warmer than coastal Mumbai.
Entrance to Ellora cave temple complex."Kailasa temple " can be seen from the Entrance.
Monday(26-1-2015) Visit to Bhadra Maruti temple, Ghrishneshwar temple and Ellora caves :- As usual was the earliest to wake upand after the normal toilet routines woke up my fellow tour companions and checked out of the hotel room.We all assembled in the hotel restaurant and later into our sturdy tour van.
"Bhadra Maruti Temple" in Khuldabad.
Our first stop at 0815 hrs was the Bhadra Maruti temple in Khuldabad which is approximately 14 Kms from Ahmedabad city. On the road came across a signboard indicating the tomb of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb who was buried in Khuldabad.The Bhadra Maruti Temple is dedicated to Hindu God Lord Hanuman who is depicted in a reclining or sleeping position.This temple is one of the only three Hanuman temples in India where Lord Hanuman is shown in a sleeping position.I did not enter the temple as it was a practicing temple and not a historical edifice being the only non-Hindu among my co-tourists.Since it was early morning the temple complex was not crowded and there was some construction work being undertaken in a adjacent building.On auspicious occasions like "Hanuman Jayanti" and "Ram Navami" lakhs of devotees congregate at this temple.There were a lot of Hanuman Langurs in the vicinity and i purchased some temple sweets.
Entry to "Grishneshwar Temple" complex.
From "Bhadra Maruti Temple" it was just a short drive to "Grishneshwar Temple" one of the 12 Jyotirlinga shrines in Hinduism.This temple is located in the village of Verul which is in close proximity to Ellora caves.The temple built of red rocks consists of a 5 tier shikara. This temple was restored in the 18th century by Ahilyabai.Holkar. Security was very strict and camera's, cell-phones and even wallets were not allowed inside the temple complex.I strolled outside the temple complex while the rest visited the temple.There was a ancient dome styled edifice outside the temple complex which is in the photograph. Got to see a pair of beautiful cats on the roof of the stalls outside the temple complex. They resembled the beautiful "Bengal Cat" breed in colour.Saw a artist painting names on a grain of rice, popular among the devotees visiting the temple.
"Ellora Caves Temple complex" layout plan.
After the Grishneshwar temple visit it was a 2 Kms drive to Ellora cave complex which was the grand finale of the tour .Ellora caves are approximately 29 Kms North-West from Aurangabad city.We had our breakfast at "Modern Restaurant", one of the numerous eateries lining the street leading to the entrance of Ellora cave complex.It was India's Republic day and a "Public holiday" with the entrance to the cave complex filled with tourists. Sonya couldn't get a tour guide as all were booked by various tourists and hence we entered the cave complex without a guide. Ellora cave complex consists of a total of 34 monasteries and temples excavated from Volcanic rock over a 2 Km stretch of embankment.The hills in which these caves are excavated forms part of the Sahyadri mountains.
View of the Courtyard of Kailasa temple.
Unlike the Ajanta caves the caves of Ellora were never lost or forgotten in history since they existed on the popular trade route.During 19th century these caves were owned by the Holkar rulers of Indore who leased these caves for worship.After the Holkars these caves came into the possession of the Nizam of Hyderabad who carried out extensive maintenance and repair of these caves through the Archaeological department of India. The caves are numbered consecutively rather than chronologically for the benefit of tourists and historians .The same is shown in the "Plan Diagram" with the Buddhist caves (1-13 ) in the South followed by the Brahmanical caves(14-29) and the last being the Jain caves (30-34).The most significant aspect of these caves is that they show the religious tolerance of this particular era. At the entrance itself is "Cave 16" which houses the World's largest monolithic rock cut temple.
Prominent Sculpture in Kailasa Temple :- Demon King Ravana trying to lift Mt Kailasa.
The "Kailasa Temple" has been excavated and cut from a mountain beginning from the top to the bottom .On entering the temple complex i got the same euphoric feeling as when i first glimpsed the Taj Mahal in Agra, a view just beyond description.Strolled around the crowded temple complex sad that a guide's services was missing for explanation of one of the World's historic temple site.After a few minutes Sonya did manage to get a guide and we heaved a sigh of relief as guide Shri Balwant.Shewale began his explanation of "Kailasa Temple".
Depiction of Ramayana in Kailasa Temple.
Guide Balwant.Shiwale explaining .
The Kailasa cave is a model of Dravidian architecture and was commissioned by Rashtrakuta King Krishna-1 in 8 A.D.Being a South Indian temple it doesn't have a Shikara a common architectural feature of North Indian Temples.It is estimated that 4,00,000 tons of rock were scooped over 150 years to complete the construction of this monolith temple. Elephant sculptures are very prominent among the animals depicted showing them holding the temple at its base.Various sculptures carved in the temple have a meaning and purpose and are not just there by accident.The main temple is called the "Rang Mahal(Painted Temple)" because on completion the temple was plastered and painted.Most of the painting has been damaged but the paintings done in the 18th century by the Holkars are prominent. Its a traditional Shiva temple built to recall Mt Kailasa in the Himalayas , the abode of Lord Shiva . The Nandi bull sculture is prominent in the central temple that houses the Lingam at the rear end of the hall..The most famous sculpture is of Ravana attempting to lift Mt Kailasa .Guide Shiwale explained us the various sculptures and their meaning.A guide is essential for any historical site as the text books and guide books do not explain in detail the position or significance of each and every sculpture.Among the Brahmanical caves( 14 -29) its "Kailasa Temple(Cave 16)" that is the largest and most significant.To tour the entire Ellora cave complex would require a entire day and hence we were shown only the most important caves.
"Cave No 12" :- Buddhist cave known as "Teen Tal" because of its 3 floors.
Our next visit was to "Cave No 12", a Buddhist cave built in 8th Century A.D and known as "Teen Tal" as it had 3 floors.It looked massive although the interior was simple with sculptures on the walls.This was the last of the Buddhist caves to be built.
Sculpture of Buddha in "Teen Tal" cave
The first floor is a pillared hall which has a antechamber and a sanctum with small cells for the monks.The sanctum facing the entrance houses the Buddha in a seated posture on a lotus throne.The second floor is also similar to the first floor in structure. The sanctum has a beautiful panel of Buddhist devotee Sujata offering Kheer to Lord Buddha seated on the earth position.All sculptures were plastered and painted.The third floor is also similar in plan and more of a sculptural gallery.
After our visit to "Cave 12" we just passed along 'Cave No 11" which is similar in structure to "Cave 12" and called "Do Tal". All the Buddhist caves from "Cave 1 -9" are Viharas(Monasteries) with caves 11 and 12 having three floors.We .next stepped into "Cave 10" situated just next to cave No "11". "Cave No 10" is a Chaitya hall , a combination of a Buddhist cathedral cum Monastery .This cave is also known as the "Carpenters cave". The Cathedral style stupa is known as the Chaitya whose ceiling has been carved to give the impression of wooden beams and hence the name "Carpenters Cave".
Ceiling of "Cave 10(Carpenters cave)" with the Stupa.
At the heart of this cave is a massive 15 foot statue of the Buddha in a preaching position with a Bodhi tree carved at the back..The cave has 8 cells .This cave follows the pattern of construction of caves 19 and 26 of Ajanta.The date of construction of this cave is approximately 700 AD.
After completion of touring "Cave 10" we went back to the main pathway and observed the other caves from the exterior.Our next itinerary was to visit the "Jain Caves(Nos 30-34)" which were at the extreme North-West of the cave complex.Time was of prime importance as we had to reach Mumbai by midnight since all the co-tourists barring the minors were office employees or proprietors. We quickly walked back to our car park, boarded the van and drove towards "Cave 30-34".Only Geeta.Udyavar, Sheetal.Shah, Ashutosh.Welankar and myself decided to visit the "Jain temple cave complex" as the rest were either not interested or just tired at the end of a hectic 'Tour de Ahmedabad" by van.
Jain Temple (Cave No 32)
"Lotus Carving" on ceiling of "Cave Nos 32"
The five Jain caves in Ellora belong to the 9th and 10th centuries and of the Digambar sect of Jains.Most impressive are Chhota Kailash cave (Cave 30), Jagannath Sabha(Cave No 33) and Indra Sabha(Cave No 32).Cave No 31 is a unfinished four pillar hall while Cave no 34 is a small cave approachable through Cave No 33.We entered "Cave No 32" known as the "Indra Sabha" which was a double stories cave temple belonging to the Digambar sect.The ground floor has a verandah flanked by chapels, a hall , a antechamber and a sanctum.This cave is famous for its ceiling which has a lotus flower intricately carved. The upper floor consists of a big verandah,pillared hall and a sanctum.The side walls of the verandah have huge beautiful sculptures of Matanga(God of Wealth) and Ambica(Goddess of Prosperity). The walls are decorated with sculpture and the entire cave painted.The sanctum houses Lord Mahavira and Jain deities guard the door.We quickly walked through the rest of the Jain cave temples and finally made our way back to the car park.
Beautiful farmland on Aurangabad-Mumbai highway.
Lunch was at a restaurant near Ellora caves, a Maharashtrian vegetable thali with ice-cream.After lunch at approximately 1500 hrs we began our marathon van journey back to Mumbai.The weather was cloudy and pleasant.The highway upto the outskirts of Shirdi was torturous and the journey slow.Admired the excellent farmland along the highway, mostly sugarcane farming.At approximately 1730 hrs we reached the outskirts of Igatpuri and stopped for tea at a highway Dhaba.I chose sugarcane juice, definitely fresh juice from the local fields.The young man operating the sugarcane crusher was a all-rounder farmer helping his aged father in the Dhabha/ Sugarcane business as well as cultivating his own farmland. He told me that sugarcane farming was not very profitable as it took a year for harvesting and required a lot of irrigation water unlike common vegetables.Milk dairy farming is most profitable according to his opinion and if i again plan to shuffle careers then a farm house with cattle would be my next calling !After tea we headed back non-stop towards Mumbai on a very well paved highway.It puzzles my logic as to reasons the Maharashtra Government has failed to make the roads of Aurangabad and its vicinity World class akin to the Mumbai-Pune highway.Maximum tourists flock to Aurangabad as after the Taj.Mahal it is Ajanta/Ellora that every foreign tourist love to visit in India.Young Collegian Ashutosh exposed his talent as a "D.J " spinning beautiful Hindi Hip-hop songs from his "I-Phone" through the van music sound system. The ladies were highly impressed by his talent and bullied him a little less after that ! During conversation in the van was surprised to know that Sheetal.Shah was a qualified mountaineer having done a course at the "Indian Institute of Mountaineering".Learnt a lot from my fellow lady tourists also realizing that India and Mumbai is changing rapidly in tourism as well as womens liberalization.As the van reached the outskirts of Kalyan my co-tourists gradually began alighting the van for their way back home. Vaishali, Sonya and myself were the last people to alight at Dadar T.T.Boarded a taxi at Dadar T.T and was home in Prabhadevi at approximately 1015 hrs, unbelievably fast and safe driving by Mr Bharat.Patil.
P.S :- Thanks to the Internet for helping me in researching the facts of the historical sights as history is history and remains unchanged .All the opinions expressed by me are my own personal views and not of any of my co-tour group members.
